Sump Pump Types Explained in Illinois - What You Need to Know
If you are researching sump pump types explained in Illinois, this guide has you covered. A working sump pump is your last line of defense against basement flooding, and understanding your options before an emergency strikes can save you thousands in water damage. Here is what Illinois homeowners need to know.
Through Sump Pump Team, we connect Illinois homeowners with licensed plumbers who specialize in sump pump repair, installation, and battery backup systems - including 24/7 emergency service.

Understanding the Different Types of Sump Pumps
Choosing the right sump pump type is the most important decision in protecting your basement from water damage. Each pump type serves a different purpose, and most well-protected homes use a combination of two types - a primary pump for daily water management and a backup for emergencies.
The five main sump pump types are submersible pumps, pedestal pumps, battery backup pumps, water-powered backup pumps, and combination systems that integrate primary and backup into a single unit. Submersible pumps dominate residential installations, accounting for approximately 75% of new installs. They offer the best combination of power, durability, and quiet operation for primary water management.
The right type for your Illinois home depends on several factors: how much water your pit collects during rain events, whether your basement is finished living space or unfinished storage, how reliable your area's power grid is during storms, and your budget for both initial purchase and long-term maintenance. ASHRAE data shows that 60% of US homes have below-grade moisture problems, making sump pump selection a decision that affects millions of homeowners.
The sections below detail each pump type with specifications, costs, advantages, and limitations to help you make an informed choice. Through Sump Pump Team, Brian Cole connects you with licensed plumbers in Illinois who can assess your specific conditions and recommend the right pump type. Call (800) 555-0215 for personalized guidance.
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Get My Free EstimateSubmersible Sump Pumps - The Most Popular Choice for Homes
Submersible sump pumps are the standard recommendation for residential primary pump installations. The entire unit - motor, pump, and float switch - sits inside the sump pit, completely submerged in water during operation.
How they work. The motor and pump are sealed in a single waterproof housing. Water enters through the intake screen at the bottom, passes through the impeller which pressurizes it, and exits through the discharge port at the top connected to the discharge line. The sealed design means the motor is cooled by the surrounding water, which extends motor life and allows the pump to handle higher workloads without overheating. The submerged operation also means significantly quieter running - the water absorbs motor noise that would otherwise travel through the basement.
Specifications. Residential submersible pumps range from 1/3 HP (2,500 GPH at 10-foot lift) to 1 HP (5,000+ GPH) for severe conditions. Most homes are well served by a 1/3 to 1/2 HP unit. The pump sits in a sump pit typically 18-24 inches in diameter and 22-36 inches deep, with a float switch that activates when water rises to a preset level.
Materials matter. Cast iron housings cost more but dissipate heat approximately 40% more effectively than thermoplastic (plastic) housings, which extends motor life under heavy use. Cast iron also adds weight that keeps the pump stable in the pit and reduces vibration. Thermoplastic pumps are lighter and less expensive, suitable for light to moderate water conditions. Stainless steel housings offer corrosion resistance but at a premium price.
Advantages. Quietest operation of any primary pump type. Highest pumping capacity per horsepower. Sealed motor protected from moisture and debris. Handles small debris and sediment better than pedestal pumps. Does not take up floor space above the pit.
Disadvantages. Higher purchase price ($150-$400 for the unit). More difficult to access for service since the pump must be lifted from the pit. Motor repairs are generally not feasible - the entire unit is replaced when the motor fails. Requires a pit deep enough to fully submerge the unit.
For most homeowners, the advantages of submersible pumps significantly outweigh the disadvantages. Through Sump Pump Team, Brian Cole helps you select the right submersible pump for your conditions. Call (800) 555-0215.

Pedestal Sump Pumps - Budget-Friendly Option for Low-Volume Situations
Pedestal sump pumps mount the motor above the sump pit on a vertical post, with only the impeller and intake submerged in the water. They are the simpler, more affordable pump type with specific advantages for the right application.
How they work. A long shaft extends from the motor mounted above the pit to the impeller at the bottom of the pit in the water. The motor drives the impeller through this shaft, and water is drawn in through the intake screen and pushed up through the discharge line. A ball float or vertical float switch attached to the shaft or pit wall activates the motor when water rises to the trigger level.
Specifications. Residential pedestal pumps typically come in 1/3 and 1/2 HP configurations, delivering 1,500 to 3,000 gallons per hour. They require a standard sump pit but the pit does not need to be as deep as for a submersible since the motor stays above the water line. The motor stands 2-3 feet above the pit opening.
Advantages. Lower purchase price ($60-$200 for the unit). Motor is easily accessible for inspection and service without entering the pit. Because the motor stays above water, it avoids water seal degradation and can last up to 15 years with proper maintenance. Easier to diagnose problems because you can see and hear the motor during operation. Works in narrower pits that cannot accommodate a submersible pump.
Disadvantages. Significantly louder than submersible pumps because the motor is exposed and not dampened by water. Lower pumping capacity per horsepower. The exposed motor is vulnerable to humidity and condensation in damp basements. The above-pit motor takes up floor space and can be an obstacle in finished basements. Not suitable for high-volume water conditions.
Best applications. Pedestal pumps work well for unfinished basements with low to moderate water intrusion, crawl space applications where pit depth is limited, and budget-conscious installations where water volume does not demand a submersible pump's capacity. They are not recommended for finished basements (noise), high-volume conditions (insufficient capacity), or as the sole pump in flood-prone areas.
If you are unsure which pump type fits your situation, call (800) 555-0215 to reach Brian Cole at Sump Pump Team for a professional assessment.
Backup Sump Pump Types - Battery-Powered and Water-Powered
Backup sump pumps are secondary systems that activate when your primary pump fails. Power outage during storms is the number one cause of sump pump failure - the storm that produces the water also kills the power. Every sump pump system should include backup protection.
Battery backup sump pumps. The most popular backup option. A dedicated pump installs above the primary pump in the same pit, powered by a marine deep-cycle battery with an automatic charging system. When power fails or the primary pump cannot keep up, the backup activates automatically. Components include the backup pump unit, battery, charger/controller, and high-water alarm. Runtime is 7-12 hours at normal flow on a full charge. Battery backup systems cost $800-$2,500 installed and protect against both power failure and primary pump mechanical failure. The battery requires replacement every 3-5 years ($100-$300).
Water-powered backup sump pumps. These use municipal water pressure to create a venturi effect that suctions water from the pit and discharges it. No electricity or batteries are required, providing unlimited runtime as long as water pressure is available. They cost $400-$800 installed. The tradeoff is that they consume approximately 1 gallon of municipal water for every 2 gallons pumped from the pit, and they require at least 40 PSI of water pressure. They do not work on well water systems. Water-powered backups are a good option for homes with reliable municipal water pressure and as a secondary backup layer in addition to a battery backup.
Which backup type to choose. Battery backup is the universal recommendation - it works regardless of water supply, protects against both power and mechanical failure, and provides reliable runtime for most outage durations. Water-powered backups suit homes with reliable city water as a supplementary protection layer. For maximum protection, some homeowners install both: the battery backup handles the first 7-12 hours, and if the outage extends beyond battery capacity, the water-powered backup takes over.
Through Sump Pump Team, Brian Cole helps you select the right backup system. Call (800) 555-0215 for expert recommendations.

Combination Sump Pump Systems - Primary and Backup in One Unit
Combination sump pump systems integrate both the primary pump and battery backup into a single package with a unified controller. These systems are designed and manufactured to work together, eliminating compatibility concerns between separate components.
How they work. A combination system includes a primary submersible pump, a battery backup pump, a marine deep-cycle battery, and a single controller that manages both pumps. The controller handles primary pump activation during normal operation, automatic switchover to backup when power fails or the primary pump cannot keep up, battery charging and health monitoring, and alarm and notification functions. Premium combination systems include Wi-Fi connectivity for remote monitoring and smartphone alerts.
Cost. Combination systems cost $1,000 to $3,000 installed. While this is more than a standalone primary pump ($350-$1,000 installed), it is comparable to or slightly less than purchasing and installing a primary pump and battery backup separately. The savings come from single installation labor and matched components that do not require custom fitting.
Advantages. Components are designed and tested together, ensuring compatibility. Single installation means less labor cost and faster setup. The unified controller simplifies operation and monitoring - one display shows the status of both pumps, battery, and system health. Troubleshooting is straightforward because the manufacturer designed the entire system. Warranty coverage is typically more comprehensive than separate component warranties.
Disadvantages. Higher upfront cost compared to a standalone primary pump (though comparable to primary plus separate backup). If the primary pump fails and needs replacement, you may end up replacing the entire system rather than just one pump. Less flexibility in component selection - you get what the manufacturer pairs together rather than choosing your preferred primary pump brand and backup brand independently.
Best for. New installations where no existing pump or pit infrastructure exists. Complete system replacements where both the primary pump and backup need updating. Homeowners who prefer simplicity and integrated monitoring over component flexibility.
Through Sump Pump Team, Brian Cole helps you compare standalone and combination systems. Call (800) 555-0215 for recommendations specific to your Illinois home.
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Call (800) 555-0215How to Choose the Right Sump Pump Type for Your Illinois Home
Selecting the right sump pump type requires matching the pump to your specific conditions. This decision framework helps you narrow the options.
Assess your water volume. How often does your current pump run during rain events? If it cycles frequently during moderate rain, you need a high-capacity submersible pump (1/2 HP or larger). If it runs only during heavy storms, a 1/3 HP submersible or even a pedestal pump may be sufficient. If you are installing for the first time and do not have historical data, a licensed plumber can assess your water table conditions and pit fill rate to recommend the right capacity.
Consider your basement use. A finished basement with living space, bedrooms, or home office demands quiet operation - submersible pumps run 50-70% quieter than pedestal models. An unfinished basement used only for storage and utilities can tolerate the noise of a pedestal pump if budget is a constraint. The value of what the pump protects should influence how much you invest in the pump system.
Evaluate power reliability. If your area experiences frequent storm-related power outages, a battery backup is not optional - it is essential. In areas with reliable power, a battery backup is still recommended but the urgency is lower. For areas with extended outages (24+ hours), consider a dual-battery backup or a combination of battery backup and portable generator.
Match to budget. Tight budget: a quality pedestal pump ($210-$600 installed) provides basic protection. Moderate budget: a submersible primary pump with battery backup ($1,300-$3,000 total installed) is the standard recommendation. Premium budget: a combination system ($1,000-$3,000) or a high-capacity submersible with premium battery backup and Wi-Fi monitoring provides maximum protection.
The most common recommendation. For the majority of homes, plumbing professionals recommend a 1/3 HP cast iron submersible primary pump with a battery backup system. This configuration handles typical residential water volumes quietly and reliably, with automatic backup protection during power outages and primary pump failures. Through Sump Pump Team, Brian Cole connects you with licensed plumbers who help you select the right system. Call (800) 555-0215.
Specialty Sump Pumps - Effluent, Sewage, and High-Volume Models
Standard sump pumps handle groundwater - clean to moderately dirty water that seeps into the sump pit through foundation drainage. Specialty pumps handle different situations, and using the wrong pump type creates code violations, warranty issues, and premature failure.
Effluent pumps. Effluent pumps handle gray water - wastewater from washing machines, floor drains, utility sinks, and similar sources that contain soap, lint, and minor solids but not sewage. They are common in basements where a washing machine or sink drains below the sewer line elevation. Effluent pumps look similar to standard sump pumps but are rated for gray water contact and have slightly larger passages to handle small solids. Do not use a standard sump pump as an effluent pump - the gray water will degrade components not designed for that environment.
Sewage ejector pumps. Sewage pumps handle waste from below-grade bathrooms and are entirely different from sump pumps. They include a grinder mechanism that breaks down solids up to 2 inches in diameter and pump waste up to the main sewer line. Sewage ejector pumps cost $300-$800 for the unit alone and require a sealed, vented basin - never an open sump pit. Plumbing codes strictly regulate sewage pump installations, and they require permits in virtually all jurisdictions.
High-volume pumps. Standard residential sump pumps top out at about 5,000 GPH. Homes with severe groundwater conditions, commercial properties, or properties with large below-grade footprints may need high-volume pumps rated at 1 HP or higher, or dual-pump primary configurations where two submersible pumps operate in the same pit with staggered activation levels. These installations are specialized and require professional design.
Know the difference. If you need to pump groundwater from a sump pit, you need a sump pump. If you need to pump gray water from a laundry or utility application, you need an effluent pump. If you need to pump sewage from a below-grade bathroom, you need a sewage ejector pump. Using the wrong type violates plumbing codes, voids warranties, and causes premature failure.
If you are unsure which pump type your situation requires, call (800) 555-0215 to reach Brian Cole at Sump Pump Team. We connect you with licensed plumbers who identify the correct pump type for your application.
How Sump Pump Team Works
Sump Pump Team connects Illinois homeowners with licensed plumbers who specialize in sump pump repair, installation, and maintenance. Here is how it works:
- Step 1: Describe your situation - Call our line or submit your information online. We match you with a licensed plumber in your area of Illinois who specializes in sump pumps.
- Step 2: Free estimate - A licensed plumber evaluates your system, explains your options, and provides a clear estimate. No cost, no obligation.
- Step 3: Expert installation or repair - Your plumber handles everything from old pump removal to new system testing. Emergency service available 24/7.
Do not wait for the next storm. Call Brian Cole at (800) 555-0215 or get your free estimate online.
About the Author
Brian Cole
Sump Pump Specialist at Sump Pump Team
Brian Cole is a sump pump specialist with over 10 years of experience connecting homeowners with licensed plumbers who specialize in sump pump installation, repair, and maintenance. He has coordinated thousands of sump pump projects across the United States, specializing in battery backup systems and basement flood prevention.
Have questions about sump pump types explained in Illinois? Contact Brian Cole directly at (800) 555-0215 for a free, no-obligation consultation.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of sump pump is best for a home?
For most homes, a submersible sump pump (1/3 to 1/2 HP) paired with a battery backup system provides the best protection. Submersible pumps offer the highest pumping capacity, quietest operation, and longest lifespan of any primary pump type. The battery backup activates automatically during power outages and primary pump failures - the two most common causes of basement flooding. This configuration costs $1,300-$3,000 installed and protects against virtually all sump pump failure scenarios.
What is the difference between a submersible and pedestal sump pump?
A submersible pump sits entirely inside the sump pit, submerged in water. The motor is sealed in a waterproof housing, cooled by the surrounding water, and runs very quietly. Submersible pumps deliver 2,500-5,000 GPH and cost $150-$400 for the unit. A pedestal pump mounts the motor above the pit on a post, with only the impeller in the water. It is louder, less powerful (1,500-3,000 GPH), but cheaper ($60-$200) and easier to access for service. Submersible is recommended for most homes because of superior capacity, quieter operation, and longer motor life under heavy use. Pedestal is acceptable for low-volume situations on a tight budget.
How long do different types of sump pumps last?
With proper maintenance, submersible sump pumps last 7-10 years. The sealed motor eventually fails from bearing wear or seal degradation. Pedestal pumps can last 10-15 years because the motor stays above water, avoiding moisture-related wear. Battery backup pumps have a similar lifespan to submersible pumps (7-10 years), but the battery itself needs replacement every 3-5 years. Water-powered backup pumps have very long lifespans (15-20 years) since they have no motor or electrical components. Neglected pumps of any type last significantly less - typically 5-7 years - due to sediment damage, excessive cycling, and unaddressed component wear.
Do I need a battery backup sump pump?
Yes. Power outage during storms is the number one cause of sump pump failure, and storms are exactly when your pump is needed most. A battery backup activates automatically when power fails or your primary pump cannot keep up with water volume. It also protects against primary pump mechanical failure regardless of power status. The $800-$2,500 investment in a battery backup system is minimal compared to the $25,000+ average cost of basement flood damage. If you have a finished basement, valuable storage, or any below-grade living space, a battery backup is essential rather than optional.
Can I use a sump pump to pump sewage?
No. Standard sump pumps are designed for groundwater only and must not be used for sewage. Sewage requires a sewage ejector pump with a grinder that can handle solids, installed in a sealed and vented basin per plumbing code. Using a sump pump for sewage violates building codes, voids the pump warranty, contaminates the sump system, and creates a health hazard. If you have a below-grade bathroom that needs waste pumped up to the main sewer line, a licensed plumber should install a proper sewage ejector pump system.
What size sump pump do I need for my basement?
Most residential basements are well served by a 1/3 HP submersible pump (approximately 2,500 GPH at 10-foot lift). Homes with high water tables, frequent heavy rainfall, or large basement footprints should step up to a 1/2 HP (3,500-4,000 GPH). Severe conditions - flood-prone areas or significant groundwater pressure - may warrant a 3/4 HP or 1 HP pump. The correct size depends on how fast your pit fills during rain events and the total lift distance (vertical height from pit to discharge point plus friction loss from horizontal pipe runs). A licensed plumber can measure these factors and recommend the right size.
Is a cast iron sump pump better than plastic?
Cast iron sump pumps are generally better for primary residential use. Cast iron dissipates heat approximately 40% more effectively than thermoplastic (plastic), which extends motor life under heavy use. The added weight (typically 20-30 pounds vs 10-15 for plastic) keeps the pump stable in the pit and reduces vibration. Cast iron also resists impact damage better. Thermoplastic pumps cost less and are lighter, making them suitable for light-duty applications and easier to handle during maintenance. For a primary pump that will run regularly over a 7-10 year lifespan, cast iron provides better long-term value despite the higher initial cost.
What is a combination sump pump system?
A combination sump pump system integrates a primary submersible pump and a battery backup pump into a single package with a unified controller. The controller manages both pumps - running the primary during normal operation and automatically switching to the backup during power outages or primary pump failure. Combination systems cost $1,000-$3,000 installed and offer matched components, simplified installation, and unified monitoring (often including Wi-Fi alerts). They are ideal for new installations or complete system replacements where both primary and backup are being installed simultaneously.